[info]natasha_ahsatan


So how would you define Life?


First real weekend (very overdue, so shoot me)
[info]natasha_ahsatan

I’m very behind in my documentation of life here, and believe me, it’s not really for your benefit, but my own, as I am notorious for my sieve-like memory.  Bear with me as I return to my first real weekend in Singapore.  To preface, I was both very excited and very nervous for the weekend because I had found the Singapore office empty, and a bit cold (temperature-wise and personality-wise) during my first week, as many of the cases in Singapore require Mon-Thurs travel and my cautious attempts to make friends had not been very successful.  This is not to say that people weren’t nice, but, that they all had their own things going on and were quite busy with work etc, while I, as I “ramped up” was going home at 5pm and trying to keep my eyes open (12 hour jet lag is no fun).  In fact, I did have a really nice time going out to lunch with Ben Zhang and a couple of his friends (my “official” welcome to Singapore lunch) and then joining them for a drink after work on Thursday.  I was worried that I wasn’t assimilating quickly enough, but didn’t quite know what to do better. 

 

Thus, I was super excited to meet Andrea’s cousin, Aditi, for drinks on Friday and to watch the Mexico – South Africa game with her and her friends.  In fact, her company also had a group of recent transfers (from Germany…one of my fave countries) so she had invited them as well to the bar in Clarke Quay where she and her friends were hanging out so that I could meet more people to hang out with and potentially travel with. 

Of course, like usual, nothing goes as planned.  Friday was the last day that my American cellphone plan worked (yes I was paying through the nose to maintain one last connection to the world, as I was not sure how long it would take to switch to a Singapore plan), and I had just received my M1 SIM card.  Of course, my M1 SIM card worked fine in the office, so when I went home after work on Friday, I was convinced all was right with the world.  And since I assumed I would have a working blackberry, or at the very least, phone, I didn’t bother to write Aditi’s number down, or the location of the bar we were meeting.  Turns out the M1 network does not work with Verizon handsets (I only found this out later), even when they are unlocked.  Once I left office I was unable to receive or send messages and, in most parts of Singapore, calls.  Of course, my home internet took this very auspicious time to all stop working.  I am a self-described Luddite and my failsafe CTRL-ALT-DEL was not working.  Finally, after 2 hours on the phone and no progress whatsoever, I decided to venture out, without phone, email or internet, all I knew about the bar was that it was on one of the Quays and was called Senor Taco (yeah, we were watching the Mexico game, get over it). 

 

When it rains, it pours.  Of course, when I got into a cab and said the name of the bar, the driver had no clue what/where I was talking about, and, when I stopped at a hotel to ask, not only did the concierge not know, but the Singapore 411 service had NO idea.  Worse, when the concierge found out that I was not, in fact, staying at his hotel, he became decidedly less helpful and suggested that I try the internet café across the street.  By sheer blind luck I picked the correct quay and finally made it to the bar (after wandering around for what seemed like forever).  By this time I was hot, flustered and close to giving up, and realized that I had NO clue what Aditi looked like.  Thankfully, I must have projected “lost puppy” and she found me. 

 

This bar was more like a beach drink shack, with a cordoned off table area, than proper bar and had, what I can only assume, the entire Mexican population in Singapore (surprisingly large and proud) crowded into a space slightly bigger than my deck in Boston.  For someone still getting used to the heat and humidity, the addition of body heat was almost unbearable.  Plus we were all craning our necks to watch the game on a ~52 inch TV…all 100 or so of us.  Truly fabulous. 

 

Actually disastrous beginning of the evening aside, it was actually a really fun night. Because the actual bar was absurdly crowded, we got pints of mojitos…yes pints (you try to survive 90 degree heat compounded by the body heat of too many people crammed into too small a space and the din of noisemakers and Spanish cheers), and hung back to take in the scene and chat.  Plus, when the German’s came, I was relieved at how friendly and welcoming they were.  One of them had actually interned at Bain for a summer before joining DHL full time, so we had a lot to chat about.  More importantly they were very fun and still new enough to Singapore to want to explore and go out.

 

In fact, when the game ended, Aditi, who wasn’t feeling quite well, decided to head home and although I had heard from a bunch of Bainies that “Butter Factory” was “happening,” I had no way of contacting any of them and therefore the Germans and I decided to stay a bit more local and hit Attica a bar/club that was actually on the water on Clarke Quay.  To be honest, it was a bit crowded for my taste, although the music was fun (bottom floor Rap & Top 40) and full of very sketchy expats surrounded by adoring Asian girls…no I’m not joking, there were very at least 3 girls per guy and it felt a bit like Russia.   The upstairs, or Attic, was accessed through a cobblestoned courtyard and up a velvet corridor/staircase… yes the walls were red velvet – imagine a birth canal … I guess.  Upstairs techno and house pounded a sea of very tall people.  Actually probably the tallest people in Singapore were all crowded into this vast loft – only as we got closer did the emaciated forms of the men and women indicate that we were in a sea of models.  Trust me to come to Singapore, a city where I could finally be of average height, and pick the one club known to be a model hang-out.  Here too it was odd, every male had his own personal harem – surprising, until I found out that polygamy was only outlawed in the 1960s in Singapore (a fact I learned later J )

 

All in all, I had a fabulous time and made some great friends, but was glad to spend the next day with my aunt, uncle and cousin, trying delicious Singaporean cuisine and watching the World Cup from their comfortable couch.



Franz Ferdinand meets south indian folk music
[info]natasha_ahsatan

I cannot believe that I’ve been here for more than a month already!  How time flies.  I have to say, that it’s disconcerting how quickly I have adapted to life here.  I guess the fact that Singapore reminds me of basically any western city – except with better food and malls that try to eat you alive (google ION, it’s scary) – and I see so little of Bangkok while there that it is easy to feel as if very little has changed. 

 

In fact, I have now even gotten used to the weather!  What once would have had me drenched in sweat and feeling quite gross, is now pleasant enough such that I am immediately cold when getting into cabs/buildings etc.  I think my adjustment has been eased by the fact that the ACIs and SAs started basically a week after I got to Singapore. 

 

Although I have not spent a ton of time with the SAs, I do hang out quite a lot with the ACIs as a few of them, like me, are in Singapore without a significant support system or network of friends and family.  Plus, two SAs and one of the ACIs are on my team and therefore my utter addiction to Bain IM and our shared wonder at some of the absurdities of life in Bangkok and at our client has drawn us closer.  For example, every day at 5pm exactly, our client’s “song” plays over the loudspeakers on every one of the 30 floors of the building.  It’s cheesy and hilarious with a mixture of musical genres and vocal stylings.  Now, according to some teammates, this is the “quitting song” ie other people in the building (not our direct client maps – who are basically the Green Berets/Special Forces unit of the client, specially chosen to work with us) all peace out.  But in our room, yes we sit with 30 odd clients, conversations go on as normal, even as a mix of 50’s peppy pop, Franz Ferdinand-esque rock and a slightly out of harmony duet play in the background. 
 



one belated weekend update
[info]natasha_ahsatan

As I said before, Singapore and Boston, while similar in so many ways – awesome people, random events, cool office buildings… - have some key differences.  Bain Singapore is on the 50th floor and has a view from coast to coast (until they change offices next year), which on clear days allows you to see Indonesia and Malaysia, we see office buildings and parking garages, or if you’re lucky glimpses of the south end.  Bain Singapore also parties/does events differently.  For one, “bay gatherings” have themes and have to include one health related event, thus I went with a collection of female EAs and ambitious male ACs and Consultants to a swanky gym where we learned how to … booty dance to single ladies/usher (no Caro not the actual single ladies dance, but some very random mix of jazz hands, line dancing and booty bouncing)…HILARIOUS.   But more importantly, while we have to wait in line at the “Bain Bar” (even though Kirby tried to explain to the bouncers that we basically own the place/provide much of their business), Singapore’s Butter Factory (think clery’s except with tables, VIP sections, a techno room AND a Rap/R&B room) has many Bain VIPs, who just have to flash a card to cut the line and avoid the admittedly expensive (from a boston perspective) Sing$30 cover. Oh and managers, consultants and ACs hang out there often together, unprompted by Bain events…


My first experience with Butter was thanks to a friend in the office who was in charge of the ACI welcome event – read, Dom table service at Butter – and it was epic.  This is the same friend who describes Bain Singapore as Gossip Girl… which doesn’t seem too outrageous given some of the stories I’ve heard.  The interns are super fun and I had a great time getting to know some of the other Bainees better – till 4 am.  Needless to say, the next morning, I felt our epic beer, vodka and champagne fuelled night and enjoyed spending the day with my aunt and uncle relaxing, shopping, being introduced to Singaporean food courts, and watching the world cup.  Yes I was lame that night, I decided to stay in and watch the world cup on tv, it was fantastic.



Epic weekends
[info]natasha_ahsatan
I realize that in my obsession with the food, I haven't really spoken much about the people I've met and the things I've been doing...so teaser cliff notes (in no particular order)
- German transfers and a club full of models
- Singapore contains a significant number of Mexican expats (as I found watching the Mexico v. South Africa game with a bucket mojito)
- Bain Boston has Clery's a fake Irish pub that won't even let us cut the line, Bain Singapore has Butter Factory a club with cover, where managers and ACs have VIP access (nope no longer in Kansas)
- Opera in the Botanical gardens as the sun set
- more Butter factory, and delish late night dining
- Helipad, with a view of the river and city from it's sweet roofbar
- Hiking the treetop walk and seeing a monkey and some skinks

Tomorrow more details
  

Our menu cheat sheet
[info]natasha_ahsatan



culinary adventures in Bangkok
[info]natasha_ahsatan
I apologize for the picture heavy and content light posts of the past, I have a notoriously faulty processing mechanism (i.e. I suck at writing about what I've experienced).  Ok so...

This past week has been super fun, although, for spending 4 nights and 4 days in Bangkok, I have virtually no appreciation for the city, as my time there has consisted of the hotel, our client and various eateries.  I have, however, started a successful culinary tour.  Thanks to the deep knowledge of my team and the fact that we take almost an hour and a half for huge family style lunches, I have tried a ton of new and delish dishes and, because this is my blog and I can do what I want, I'm going to document some of them :)
 
Last Friday (6/11) was dimsum (like Boston's own China Pearl, but better) - at Noble House there was no mad waving of hands to try and flag down carts with shumei and shrimp dumplings, Dalad (the SAC I replaced - she just left for London) just listed off the teams favorite dishes in chinese from memory, as people around the table shouted out other additions.  All the food was cooked to order, unlike any other dimsum place I'd been to, and the result melted in your mouth.  Granted, the Noble House was definitely upscale and therefore might not be typical, but you could definitely taste the difference.  I did quite enjoy how everyone around me kept serving me bits and pieces of different dishes, it still continues now and what was once really cute is getting a bit silly - I can feed myself!

Monday, my first day on the ground in Bangkok, we went to the team's favorite Thai restaurant "Foodies" and once again had an absurd amount of food.  From fried pork fat (yup my manager loves it) to morning glory (one of my new favorite vegetables) and steamed thai curry (imagine a thick stew almost) by the time we were done I was in need of a serious nap...no luck as I had a 1:30pm meeting which was primarily in Thai (ie clients discussing amongst themselves while we attempted to look interested and engaged as we waited for them to translate).


On Tuesday we tried another team/cult favorite - the Chinese restaurant across from our client - which everyone called Peking Duck.  I thought that this was the actual name of the restaurant, but it seems that we have nicknames for restaurants based on our favorite dishes there.  Thus went my introduction to Peking duck - I have surprisingly never tried it before - and the beginning of a love affair with Taro.  That night the ACs were invited to dinner at La Scala, the italian restaurant in our hotel, with our senior partner, who looks like he's barely 30 but is actually the head of the Asia practice. Why we ate at an Italian restaurant (chef has 2 michelan stars in Europe and therefore is legit), you ask, well, if I lived in Singapore and had been traveling to Bangkok for 10 years, I too might want a break from Asian cuisine - or so explained Ed.

The best meal of the week, however, in terms of authenticity, had to be our Thursday foray into the market.  The hole in the wall eatery, where we ended up, was decidedly local.  If you don’t speak thai, don’t bother, no one there speaks any other language.  But my colleague Xue Min had a genius idea.  She had our only remaining Thai team member, Mon, write in Thai and English all the Team’s favourite dishes (which she then scanned and sent to all of us) so that if and when Mon was not present at one of our market adventures, we could just pull out the sheet and hand it to the restaurant owner.  So in addition to the laminated security card with the phone numbers of our Thai security team, airlines, etc, every member of our team has a photo copy of this hand-written menu.  (attached)  This was my time trying thousand year eggs, and, I have to say the jury's still out on whether I would order them for myself.

Sunny and nice in Bangkok, flooding in Singapore!
[info]natasha_ahsatan
 Glad I'm not in Singapore right now...


Nope, definitely not in Kanas
[info]natasha_ahsatan
The international Terminal of the Singapore airport has a mini Orchid park...

I wandered around it a bit and found many of the flowers that my mother has cultivated over the years - her green thumb complements my black one.  I think this is far better than the drab attempts of Logan to liven up the terminals with old slot machines and the like.

I can't believe that my team was complaining about our hotel!



This gorgeous fruit greeted me in my palatial Bangkok Sukothai hotel room.  I have to admit, though, that I am a bit apprehensive about my first day at the client.  From everything that I have heard, the culture of Thai business is diametrically opposite that of American business.  I've been told that they appreciate slow speakers who are gentle and soft and do not appreciate probing questions (nope no Socratic method).  I think this will be a opportunity to learn how to be "seen and not heard" something my parents probably would have appreciated when I was younger.

ps.  The city looks very calm.  My fears about the articles I've been following in foreign policy (the anti-gov peeps trying to paint Parliament red with their blood ~ totally unhygienic!) were a bit overblown.  But, any city that has pink cabs is good in my book!


Why Bain Singapore (and singapore in general) rocks
[info]natasha_ahsatan
The Bain Singapore office is the entire top floor (50th) of one of the tallest buildings in the Singapore CBD and therefore has a 360 view of the entire city/island from sea to sea (or is it ocean to ocean).  The people here totally take this stupendous view for granted as most of the blinds are pulled down to avoid the computer glare.  Plus the central lobby is a tropical hothouse with colorful orchid, tall palms and lots of sunshine.  Pretty cool no?

More importantly, the amenities are sweet! We have a bunch of different cereals and fruits every morning, a dizzying selection of sodas, juices and canned drinks with indecipherable Chinese writing, as well as a coffee machine that grinds the beans for every cup (who needs to buy a french press when it's available at the office).  

Plus my apartment building is awesome... you should all come and visit

http://www.iproperty.com.sg/singaporecondominiums/condominium.aspx?condo=Icon 

Oh and Kate, just FYI NCIS is the number 1 rated US show in Japan and Korea ... I am not alone 

Odd juxtapositions
[info]natasha_ahsatan
 Yesterday, as I was on my way to the American embassy in a cab, I passed by Zion street...as in, "The promised land" street.  What a conceit!  This little utopian citystate has the guts to name a normal street Zion, just tells you how far Lee Kuan Yew's (now the Minister Mentor  - how sinister does that sound) God delusion has spread.  No seriously, guess where Zion street ends?  The "Great City Mall." This juxtaposition is too much, the religious concept of the "Promised Land" with the capitalist equivalent, the super-mall.  Moreover, it's called "Great City"... really?  I wonder if some bored classically educated bureaucrat with a ironic sense of humor got a really big kick out of having the road of Zion dead end in a capitalist playground. 

Although that does sum up Singapore, if whoever planned this area was a bit self-aware; it's third way of "Asian values," which seems to manifest, not in virtue and forbearance, but in conspicuous consumption.  I'd guess there are more malls per capita here than in the most consumer-crazed parts of the US.

but that's neither here nor there (sorry, have been a bit bored and have spent my time google our Dear Leader; I like that he loves Machiavelli "Between being loved and being feared, I have always believed Machiavelli was right.If nobody is afraid of me, I’m meaningless." Lee Kuan Yew, 6.10.1997

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